Hoshizaki FM-series ice machine Error Codes
Applies to: FM-series flakers and F/FD modular flakers. Compiled and paraphrased from Hoshizaki's own service documentation: FM-series service manuals for the E-codes, and service manual 73204 for the H and J Series Modular Flaker with F-A and F-C control boards for the beep alarms, including Hoshizaki's own reset instructions and voltage thresholds. Code sets differ between FM flakers, F/FD modular flakers, IM cubers and KM cubers; always confirm against the service manual for your exact model. Table last updated Aug 13, 2026.
How to read the codes
Hoshizaki flakers report faults in two completely different languages, and which one you get depends on the control board rather than on anything you can choose. FM-series machines display an E-code when an interlock trips. North American F and FD modular flakers with the F-A or F-C control board have NO code display: they sound an alarm and the NUMBER OF BEEPS is the fault, repeating every 5 seconds. So count the beeps between pauses before you go looking for a code that is not there. Two further Hoshizaki families differ again: KM-series cubers signal with LED blink patterns on the control board, and newer models with a diagnostic display show the code on screen. Always match the table to your machine family.
The codes
| Code | Meaning | Likely causes | Operator-safe steps | Technician work |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| E0 | Ice making water leak | Water escaping the ice making circuit | Check for visible leaks and water supply problems; shut water off if leaking | Water circuit and valve service |
| E1 | Low ice production | Cycle running long: hot gas valve leakage, water valve letting water in during freeze, stuck float switch, hot ambient air at the condenser | Clean the condenser, improve ventilation, confirm water supply | Hot gas valve, water valve, and refrigerant-side diagnosis |
| E2 | Float switch error | Water level float switch reading out of range or stuck, often scale | Clean and descale on schedule | Float switch cleaning or replacement |
| E3 | Gear motor error or gear motor sensor circuit open | Auger drive motor fault or its sensor circuit open | Record the code; stop using the machine | Gear motor and sensor diagnosis |
| E4 | Abnormal high side pressure | Dirty condenser, blocked airflow, fan failure, refrigerant-side faults | Clean the condenser and clear space around the unit | Refrigerant-side diagnosis (EPA 608 required) |
| E5 | Gear motor drive element error | Fault in the auger motor drive circuit | Record the code for the technician | Drive circuit and control board service |
| E8 | Discharge pipe temperature fault | Discharge line temperature outside range; condenser airflow and refrigerant-side causes | Clean the condenser; check ambient temperature | Refrigerant-side diagnosis (EPA 608 required) |
| 1 beep | Low water safety: the reservoir did not refill in time | The upper float switch stayed open more than 90 seconds after the inlet water valve energised. Water supply off or throttled, exhausted filters, a blocked valve screen, a float sticking on scale, or a drain valve leaking water away as fast as it fills | Check the supply is on and the filters are not overdue. This alarm resets itself once water is restored and the upper float closes | Float switch cleaning and continuity check, inlet water valve screen and solenoid, and the drain valve seat |
| 2 beeps | Control switch left in DRAIN longer than 15 minutes | Somebody drained the machine and did not return the control switch to ICE. This is housekeeping, not a failure | Move the control switch back to ICE and the alarm resets itself | Not needed unless the alarm continues with the switch in ICE, which points at the switch contacts or the control board |
| 3 beeps | High-pressure switch tripped, first or second time within an hour | Dirty condenser or air filter, ambient or condenser water too warm, condenser fan not running, refrigerant overcharged, a restriction in the refrigerant line, or condenser water pressure too low on water-cooled models | Clean the condenser and air filter and clear whatever is blocking airflow. The alarm resets itself once pressure falls and the switch closes | High-side diagnosis: condenser, fan motor, water regulating valve, charge and restrictions (EPA 608 required) |
| 4 beeps | High-pressure switch tripped a third time within the same hour | The same high-side causes as the 3-beep alarm, except now the fault is repeating instead of clearing | Hoshizaki's own instruction here is to call for service, and it recommends leaving the icemaker off until the alarm is resolved to avoid possible catastrophic failure | Do not simply reset and walk away. Diagnose the high side before returning the machine to service. Reset is manual, by cycling the power supply |
| 5 beeps | Freeze timer: 30 minutes elapsed without the lower float opening | The machine is not making ice fast enough to draw the reservoir down. Low charge, a restriction, a failing compressor, a dirty evaporator, or an auger and gear motor not turning as they should | Record the alarm and stop running the machine. Reset is manual, by turning the power supply off and on | Refrigeration diagnosis, then auger, bearing and gear motor inspection |
| 6 beeps | Low supply voltage, at or below 92VAC plus or minus 5% | Supply voltage has fallen below what the control board will run on. Hoshizaki notes the POWER OK LED turns off when the voltage protection operates | This is a building electrical problem rather than an icemaker fault. Check whether other equipment on the same circuit is affected | Measure supply voltage under load. The control voltage safeties reset automatically once voltage is corrected |
| 7 beeps | High supply voltage, at or above 147VAC plus or minus 5% | Supply voltage above the board's tolerance, usually a wiring or utility problem rather than anything inside the machine | Report it as an electrical problem. The machine is protecting itself and resets when voltage returns to range | Measure supply voltage and investigate the branch circuit before replacing any icemaker component |
| 8 beeps | Gear motor alarm: the compressor control relay contacts failed to close | The gear motor did not start, or the compressor control relay did not pull in. Blown gear motor fuse, open internal protector, failed capacitor, a worn spline coupling, or a failed relay | Stop the machine and record the alarm. Reset is manual, by cycling the power supply | Gear motor fuse, internal protector, windings and capacitor, the coupling between auger and gear motor, and the compressor control relay |
| 9 beeps | Bin control fault: the mechanical backup had to stop the machine | On machines using an infrared bin sensor with a mechanical backup, the infrared sensor failed to shut the machine down and the paddle did it instead. A dirty sensor lens is the common cause | Wipe the sensor lens with a clean, warm, damp cloth and clear ice away from it. Reset by cycling the power supply | Bin control check: cover the lens and confirm the yellow LED responds. If it does not, replace the infrared sensor |
If this needs an ice machine technician
16 companies in this directory name Hoshizaki on their own site: that page shows who has been phone-confirmed, who publishes 24/7 cover, and what each puts in writing. Start there if the brand matters more than the city.
Two questions worth reading before you ring anyone: what to do first when a code appears and how to tell whether it is yours to fix.
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Related: the PM checklist that prevents the most common codes outright, and the operator guides for symptom-first diagnosis.
Not sure this is the right make? The lookup by code shows every make that uses a given code, and flags the ones that mean different things depending on the machine in front of you.