Gaylord CG3-UVi hood Error Codes
Applies to: CG3-UVi water-wash ventilators. Compiled and paraphrased from the Gaylord Industries Technical Manual for Model CG3-UVi Series Ventilators, Rev 06, published on gaylordventilation.com. Pressures, temperatures and timings are Gaylord's published figures. Command Center display text varies by model, C-6000 and C-7000 series, so confirm against the manual for your Command Center. Table last updated Aug 13, 2026.
How to read the codes
A Gaylord water-wash hood has no numbered codes. It reports through THREE STATUS LIGHTS on each ventilator section, GREEN, YELLOW and BLUE, and the meaning is in the COMBINATION rather than any single light. Read all three together before concluding anything. Green alone means the UV system is working. Beyond the lights, several faults announce themselves as behaviour: water spraying outside a wash cycle, water coming out of the inlet slot, or the fan running with no air moving. Those are listed here too, because they are what an operator actually notices.
The codes
| Code | Meaning | Likely causes | Operator-safe steps | Technician work |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Green OFF, Yellow OFF, Blue ON | UV system in standby and not operating | An extractor inspection door or UV module access door is open or unlatched, a door safety switch has failed, airflow is too low, or the main electrical raceway has exceeded 118F and the high temperature shutdown has activated | Close and latch every door first, which is the usual cause. If it persists, one cause is worth knowing: Gaylord lists COOKING EQUIPMENT IN A RUNAWAY CONDITION, running too hot, as a reason the raceway overheats. The hood may be reporting a problem with your cookline rather than with itself | Door switch continuity, then airflow against the nameplate CFM, then the raceway ventilation fan and whether the ventilation snorkel is blocked by building insulation |
| Green ON, Yellow ON, Blue OFF | One or more UV lamps are not working | Failed UV lamp, failed ballast, or loose wires 1A and 3A between Command Center and ballast | Gaylord is explicit that this does NOT prevent operation and is not unsafe; less UV is being generated, so more grease will reach the ductwork. Book it rather than stopping service | Open the module access door holding the safety switch and read the UV monitoring status board: six green lights, one per lamp, left is lamp 1. Two adjacent lamps dark usually means the shared ballast rather than the lamps, since ballast 1 serves lamps 1 and 2. Lamps need replacing at 13,000 hours |
| Green OFF, Yellow ON, Blue OFF | No power reaching the UV ballast | Circuit breaker, lamp/ballast connector unplugged, loose wire at terminal 1U, or a failed green status light itself | No operator action | Check L1 and L2 on the UV ventilation control board, then the connector plug, then terminal 1U back to the Command Center |
| No status lights at all after starting the fan | The status light circuit has lost power | Blown 4 amp fuse at terminal 6U in the Command Center, or a loose wire | No operator action | Replace the 4 amp fuse, but find why it blew: Gaylord says confirm 6U is not shorted or pinched before refitting |
| Fire mode: display indicates fire, fans stop, damper closes | A thermostat at the duct connection reached 250F and the ventilator has gone into internal fire mode | Fire in the hood or duct | CRITICAL AND COUNTERINTUITIVE: the water sprays do NOT come on during fire mode. The damper closing is what starves the fire of draft. Do not expect the wash system to put anything out. Once the thermostat cools below 250F a two minute cool-down begins automatically | If the separate fire extinguishing system discharged, it must be recharged and certified by a fire system contractor before cooking equipment is turned back on |
| Wash cycle is not cleaning properly | Grease is being left in the extraction chamber, on the particulate separators or on the UV lamps | Water supply partly closed, pressure below 40 psi, water temperature below 140F, wash cycle too short for the duty, detergent tank empty, wrong detergent, pump lost prime, or clogged spray nozzles | Check the detergent tank, which Gaylord says should be checked WEEKLY, before anything else. Wash length is set by cooking duty: 3 minutes for ovens and steamers, 5 for griddles, 7 for charbroilers, 9 for solid fuel | Gauges are inside the wash control cabinet: pressure 40 to 80 psi, temperature 140 to 180F. Line strainer may be clogged. Clear nozzles with a small wire while the cycle runs |
| Water sprays when the hood is NOT in a wash cycle | A water solenoid valve is stuck open | Foreign material trapped in the valve | Report it; water running unattended into the hood will find the drain or the floor | Gaylord's own first remedy is to tap the valve housing gently with a hammer to release trapped debris. If that fails the valve must be stripped |
| Water overflows the gutter and runs out of the inlet slot during a wash | The drain is not carrying the water away | Clogged drain outlet in that section, a blocked building drain, or a full grease trap | If more than one hood section is overflowing, the building drain is the problem rather than the hood. Check the grease gutter for paper towels and order chits, which Gaylord names specifically | Drain outlet at either end of each section, then building drain, then grease trap |
| Fan is heard running but no air is being pulled into the hood | Air is not reaching the ventilator even though the fan turns | Baffle #1 did not reopen from the wash position, a fuse-link fire damper in the duct collar has closed, a slipping or broken belt, or the fan running in reverse | Watch the damper when START FAN is pressed. If it does not move, that is the fault and the hood is not protecting you | Damper motor, then on FDD and FDT models check whether the duct collar fire damper has dropped. Command Center outputs 17 and 18 read 0 VAC fan on, 24 VAC fan off |
| START FAN pressed and nothing happens | The exhaust fan is not starting at all | Tripped overload on the magnetic starter, an HOA selector switch moved off automatic, tripped breaker, or blown fuses | Press the reset button on the magnetic starter and try again, and check that any hand-off-auto switch is on automatic. Both are common and neither needs a technician | Starter overload, HOA position, breaker, fuse continuity, then Command Center wiring |
| Hood cleaner applied fire retardant chemical | Not a fault code, but a warning worth knowing before booking a cleaner | Some commercial hood cleaning services blow fire retardant chemicals into hood and duct systems | Gaylord states plainly that fire retardant chemicals must NEVER be applied to any part of a Gaylord ventilator, and that if applied they must be removed. Worth saying to a cleaning contractor before they start | UV modules must also be removed before pressure washing or steam cleaning, and the opening blocked with the factory blocking plates to keep water out of the electrical raceways |
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Related: the PM checklist that prevents the most common codes outright, and the operator guides for symptom-first diagnosis.
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