Blodgett BCT combi oven Error Codes
Applies to: BCT and BLCT combis. Compiled and paraphrased from the Blodgett BCT Touch Control Combi Tech Manual on blodgett.com, covering BCT and BLCT 61, 62, 101, 102 and 202 models plus the Mini 6, 10 and 23. Temperatures, pressures and resistance figures are Blodgett's published values. The manual is shared with Houno, who build these ovens, and two codes direct you to Houno service. Confirm against the manual for your model. Table last updated Aug 13, 2026.
How to read the codes
Numbered codes, in two families. Codes 3 to 45 apply to every BCT and BLCT oven; codes 50 to 67 are GAS ONLY and come in pairs, where the second number is the same fault on the second burner of a 202 model. Two codes need a PHYSICAL RESET rather than a menu action: Q1 is the cavity high limit on the left underneath the oven, Q2 the boiler high limit on the right, and both need the cap unscrewed and a paperclip pushed inside. Blodgett says to fix the cause before resetting and to unplug the oven first. BCT models have a boiler and BLCT models are boilerless; all gas ovens are boilerless.
The codes
| Code | Meaning | Likely causes | Operator-safe steps | Technician work |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3 | Boiler high limit tripped: the boiler went above 275F | Blodgett's own note is that a dirty water level tube gives a FALSE LEVEL READING and allows a dry fire, which is what usually trips this | This needs a physical reset at Q2 under the oven and should not be reset until someone has found out why it happened. A dry fire is a component-destroying event, not a nuisance trip | Test menu main alarm to confirm the thermo switch, then solenoid valve, level sensor, empty pump and solid state relay. Clean or replace the level tube before replacing the high limit |
| 4 | Cavity overheat switch off: the oven chamber went above 662F | Fan not running, solid state relay failure, or a failed overheating sensor | Physical reset at Q1, the left-hand button under the oven. Unplug the oven before resetting | Main alarm test menu, then verify the fan runs and the SSR switches. Ovens with two fan motors have TWO overheating switches |
| 5 | Fan motor above 248F | Motor overheating, or a door sensor fault, since Blodgett notes 5VDC from the door circuit can affect the overheating circuit | Let the motor cool 20 to 30 minutes and try again. If it recurs, it is a motor or wiring fault | Cables and plugs, door sensor, then fan motor windings |
| 6 | Drain temperature above 167F for more than five minutes, against a normal below 140F | Water turned off, HOT water plumbed to the oven instead of cold, a broken temperature sensor, or a clogged drain jet | Check the water is on and, crucially, that the supply feeding the oven is COLD. A hot supply is a plumbing error that presents as an oven fault | Compare real drain temperature against the test function, then clean the jet and drain solenoid |
| 7 | Oven chamber temperature probe broken. The oven cannot be used | Failed probe, damaged cable or plug, or a short to ground | Nothing at operator level; the oven is out of service until it is fixed | Ohm the probe against Blodgett's chart: 100 ohms at 32F, 138 at 212F, 157 at 300F, 186 at 450F, 208 at 550F. Check each lead to ground for shorts |
| 8 | Core probe broken or not connected properly | Failed probe or a loose plug | Programs using the core probe cannot run; time-based cooking still works | Test menu miscellaneous shows all three sensors on each probe; ohm against the chart |
| 9 / 10 | Boiler probe (9) or drain probe (10) not working properly | Failed probe, cable or plug | On code 9 steam programs are unavailable. On code 10 the oven STILL WORKS, but Blodgett says to fix it as soon as possible | Ohm against the chart, check leads to ground |
| 11 | Not enough water: the steam generator did not fill to high level within two minutes | Water off, pressure below the 30 psi minimum, dirty solenoid valve, debris in the level tube, or water TOO PURE for the sensor to read | Check the water is on and the supply is not throttled. Worth knowing: overly pure water from a treatment system can stop the level sensor working, so a new filter can cause this | Confirm 24VAC at the fill valve coil, clean the solenoid, inspect the level tube |
| 12 | Solid state relay heat sink above 248F | Loose SSR mounting or connections, or a clogged intake filter | Let it cool 20 to 30 minutes. If it recurs, the filter is the first thing to check | Tighten the SSR, clean the intake filter, then replace the overheating sensor |
| 13 | Top heating element of the steam generator above 266F | Blodgett's first answer is that THE STEAM GENERATOR NEEDS DESCALING. A dirty water level tube giving a false reading can also cause a dry fire here | If you are not deliming on schedule, this is the code that says so. Blodgett recommends the delime program every 90 hours even on treated water | Descale, then check the level tube and ohm the sensor |
| 14 | Fan rotational speed too slow | Blocked intake filter, blocked fan wheel, main contactor not activating, frequency inverter fault, or a failed rotation sensor | Check the intake filter is not blocked, which is the cheapest cause and the one you can prevent | Ten-step sequence in the manual. Verify 24VAC across A1 and A2 on the main contactor, 230VAC on the inverter L/R and N/S (120VAC on gas), and 5VDC at the rotation sensor. A flashing red LED on the inverter has its own flash code printed on the inverter side |
| 15 / 16 | CPU board (15) or IO board (16) above 140F | Ambient temperature too high, clogged intake filter, or a failed cooling fan | Both usually mean the oven is in too hot a spot or the filter is dirty. Moving a heat source away can fix it | Check cooling fan operation and intake filter. Code 40 is the WARNING that precedes 16, so a 40 is a chance to act before the oven stops |
| 20 | Communication failure between the computer and the IO board | Wiring between IO and CPU boards, or wrong IO board software version | No operator action | Blodgett adds a warranty note here: make sure the control filter screen is in place, because debris reaching the electrical connections MAY VOID WARRANTY |
| 22 | Program interrupted by a power outage long enough that it cannot restart | Power failure during a cooking program | Check the food. The oven can be configured to restart automatically after a power failure, which is worth asking your service company to enable | Settings, restart after power failure |
| 23 | The oven is too hot for CombiWash to start | Wash started before the oven cooled, or a temperature sensor reading incorrectly | Let it cool and restart the wash | Compare chamber temperature against the test menu; ohm the sensor if they disagree |
| 24 | Drain blocked: the steam generator could not be emptied during flushing | Scale in the generator, foreign objects in the empty pump, or debris in front of the level sensor giving a false full reading | Report it rather than rerunning the wash | Descale, clear the empty pump, clean the level tube |
| 25 / 26 / 27 | ClimaOptima humidity faults: not calibrated (25), sensor out of range (26), or calibration did not complete (27) | Calibration needed after a CPU board, differential sensor, fan wheel or filter housing change; sensor or cable failure; or a clogged steam jet stalling a calibration step | Automatic humidity may misbehave. The oven must be COLD and dry to recalibrate, below 104F | Ten-step calibration runs about 50 minutes. Do not interrupt it or open the door |
| 29 | Door sensor not working properly | Cable or plug, or the magnet on the drip slide | Blodgett is explicit that THE OVEN STILL WORKS and does not stop when the door is opened, which is itself a reason to fix it promptly | Check the drip slide magnet before the sensor. Recalibrate the door afterwards; actual value must exceed 10 with the door closed |
| 34 | Water pressure too low | Supply pressure below the 36 psi minimum, or a clogged solenoid valve filter | Check nothing upstream has been closed down. CombiWash also needs at least 36 psi to work | Clean the solenoid valve filter, then replace the pressure sensor |
| 37 / 38 | CombiWash could not cool to set point (37), or was interrupted with detergent still in the chamber (38) | Clogged chamber jet on 37; an interrupted wash on 38 | On both, Blodgett's instruction is the same and it matters for food safety: RUN COMBIWASH STEP 0 BEFORE USING THE OVEN, to clear detergent out of the chamber | Check the chamber jet is clear on 37 |
| 45 | No 24VAC: the main contactor output is not working | Blown fuse F1 | No operator action | Check fuse F1 |
| 50/60 and 51/61 (gas) | Pressure switch errors: active at start when it should not be (50/60), or not active once the gas fan runs (51/61) | Pressure switch out of adjustment or failed; relay K16 on 51/61 | Gas heating will not run. Not an operator fix | Adjust per the pressure switch table: half a turn is about 150 RPM. TURN OFF THE GAS INLET FIRST, because Blodgett warns the oven may ignite during adjustment and produce high CO |
| 52/62 (gas) | Gas valve failure: the valve did not open after five start attempts | Gas valve, pressure switch feedback, relays, or the Dungs control box | Check the gas supply is on before calling | Run the startup sequence from the test menu, verify feedback from the pressure switch and gas valve, then check relays and the Dungs box |
| 54/64 (gas) | Gas fan RPM incorrect before ignition | Fan not reaching speed, main contactor not activated, or fuses and wiring | No operator action | Set 2000 RPM in the test menu and verify actual RPM matches. Removing low voltage plugs J18, J19 and J20 should run the fan at full speed; no RPM registered then means the fan |
| 55/65 and 56/66 (gas) | Ignition failure on first attempt, a WARNING only (55/65), or no flame detected after five attempts (56/66) | Dirty or worn electrode or burner; no gas supply on 56/66 | A 55 is the oven telling you the electrode is getting dirty BEFORE it fails to light at all. Reporting it early avoids the morning the oven will not start | Check, clean or replace the electrode or burner, then run the startup sequence |
| 57/67 (gas) | Gas stopped during operation. Warning only | Electrode or burner condition | As with 55, this is an early warning worth acting on | Clean or replace electrode or burner |
If this needs a combi oven technician
12 companies in this directory name Blodgett on their own site: that page shows who has been phone-confirmed, who publishes 24/7 cover, and what each puts in writing. Start there if the brand matters more than the city.
Two questions worth reading before you ring anyone: what to do first when a code appears and how to tell whether it is yours to fix.
Blodgett also runs a technical support line for its own equipment. The number, and what they will and will not do for you, is worth reading before you ring: most will help a technician who is already on site and will not talk an operator through a repair.
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Related: the PM checklist that prevents the most common codes outright, and the operator guides for symptom-first diagnosis.
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